Photo by Fredrika G Stjarne
Sylvan Mishima Brackett is the founder of catering business Peko-Peko and former Creative Director at Chez Panisse. Sylvan and his sumptuous, seasonal bento boxes have been featured in The New York Times as well as Gourmet. ZeroCater is thrilled to have him aboard as one of our vendors; Sylvan experimented with bento boxes made exclusively for our customers before offering them to the general public. We caught up with him recently to ask about his inspirations.
What are your earliest memories of cooking?
I was born in Kyoto and lived there until I was about a year old. Then my father built a house for us in the foothills of Northern California, outside of Nevada City. I grew up on 40 acres surrounded by a national forest and I used to water and weed my mother’s little garden. My mother was a really good cook, and we used to make a Japanese version of shumai dumplings together. Both shumai and gyoza were family endeavors because they require a lot of work: rolling out the dough, filling them with pork and minced onion, wrapping them.
For my senior project in high school I opened a pop-up restaurant and cooked everything I knew how to make, which was a complete hodgepodge of Japanese pizza, spaghetti and meatballs, French onion soup, Japanese curry, all sorts of things. For a high school audience I kind of didn’t know what I was doing and I probably ended up losing money...it was fun, though!
Notably you worked for a long time at Chez Panisse with Alice Waters. Can you tell us more about that?
I worked as Alice’s assistant for six years and then left to work in Japan. When I got back I worked for a year as Chez Panisse’s Creative Director, managing special events and the graphic design (creating menus, invitations and posters that incorporated Alice’s aesthetics). I also helped with dinners for visiting chefs and celebrities like Juliette Binoche and Yo Yo Ma. These days I still do graphic design for the restaurant on occasion -- I met with Alice about their New Year’s card, for example.
Are there other chefs who inspire you?
There are a lot of young chefs doing excellent work. Off the top of my head:
- I like what Danny Bowien is doing at Mission Chinese in San Francisco.
- Russell Moore (Camino, Oakland): Everything at Camino is cooked in an open fire, over wood. Russell used to be the chef at the Chez Panisse Cafe and he does food that is even simpler than Chez Panisse but it’s extremely well thought out and perfectly executed. Pretty amazing.
- Chris Kronner (Bar Tartine, San Francisco) I’ve done some pop-up events over there and I really like his cooking -- it’s exciting food.
Photo by Aya Brackett
Talk to us about your time in Japan.
Growing up, every three years I'd spend summers in my grandmother’s village outside of Kyoto. When I decided about seven years ago that I wanted to start cooking Japanese food seriously, I started visiting once or twice a year to train, eat and travel.
I worked at a fairly small restaurant called Soba Ro in Saitama, northeast of Tokyo. Chef Kanji Nakatani is a total character who has taken soba to new and delicious places. He buys a lot of stuff from his father-in-law who’s a farmer, and there’s also a super fish market up there. He uses the same soup, made with seasoning base katsuobushi (shaved bonito), for all sorts of other food like dashimaki tamago (rolled omelet, a version of which you see at sushi restaurants) and grilled fish. I use katsuobushi in a lot of the food I make, like my gyudon.
Kanji Nakatani’s approach is similar to Chez Panisse’s philosophy: find good ingredients and make the best of them. He also has a very lusty way of approaching food -- making it really flavorful, colorful, beautiful and balanced. He’s an amazing chef.
I worked at Soba Ro for a summer and I’ve been back for two or three short stints since then. Alice has invited him to do dinners at Chez Panisse a few times and I believe he’s coming again this spring.
Photo by Aya Brackett
You package your bento boxes with so much care. Why did you decide to focus on presentation?
I really like the idea of a bento that is super specific and comes in an exquisite package. A beautiful little contained meal. The bento boxes I’m making for ZeroCater are inspired by two kinds of Japanese bento. First there’s ekiben, or bento that you can get in the train stations in Japan. They used to be very regional so in one area they’d be famous for chicken, in another it’d be unagi, or squid. The main point was to feature that one ingredient.I was also inspired by the high-end bento that you can get in basements of department stores in Japan. I don’t want to call them malls and they’re not really food courts. Basically there are a lot of traditional Japanese companies that have branches in department stores. The company that makes the most amazing tonkatsu, 40 different kinds, all with different cuts of pork, might have a little shop in the bottom floor of the department store. Or there may be somebody who makes crackers, Japanese sweets, or gyoza - all very beautifully packaged and delicious...quite expensive, but perfectly worked out. Often when I’m flying home I’ll stop at the station connected to a department store, go down and get a beautiful unagi bento, packed in wood or bamboo husk. Those can run up to $30 per person for a little boxed lunch but they’re perfect and super deluxe.
Had you always planned on opening your own catering business? What was the impetus for Peko-Peko?
The idea of catering and bento was going to be first step toward opening a restaurant so I could figure out all my sourcing. I ferreted out really good rice and meats and vegetables. I found matsutake mushrooms here -- they are super fancy and extremely expensive in Japan but much cheaper here because they don’t have quite the caché. I also found a place to harvest fresh bamboo shoots, as well as places that sell esoteric herbs and spices such as myoga and sancho pepper. What do you think are the most common mistakes people make when opening a restaurant?The most basic mistake is not keeping standards high. I understand when you open a restaurant it can be totally crazy and you want to get the food out quickly so you might take some shortcuts, but keeping the food high-quality is so important. Even if you lose money in the beginning eventually people will come around to it.
Of course, you still need to be conscious about keeping costs to a minimum. A lot of people have opened million dollar restaurants but the finances are hard to make work when you have investors who need to make their money back and you can never get yourself out of a hole.